The Cardamom Mountains: rainforest rivers near the coast
How to visit the Cardamom Mountains: community-run Chi Phat, the Cardamom Tented Camp eco-lodge, access along National Road 48, seasons, and the Thai border advice.
A river through the Cardamom rainforest, from the air
Researched from published sources
In short
The Cardamoms are south-west Cambodia’s great rainforest, reached along National Road 48 about four to five hours from Phnom Penh. Visitors usually choose between Chi Phat, a village-run ecotourism project with homestays and treks, and Cardamom Tented Camp, a comfortable safari-tent lodge reached by boat. Both sit well outside the Thai border advisory zone; Koh Kong town does not.
The Cardamom Mountains run across south-west Cambodia between the Gulf of Thailand and the plains around Phnom Penh. Rivers drain out of them through dense forest towards the coast, and rangers and conservation groups work to protect a vast block of forest. For travelers, the appeal is simple: real rainforest a morning’s drive from Phnom Penh, close enough to combine with Kampot or the coast.
Two ways in
Chi Phat is a riverside village about 17 km off National Road 48, where residents run a community-based ecotourism project. You arrive by boat or motorbike from Andoung Teuk, sleep in a homestay, guesthouse or bungalow, and choose treks, mountain-bike rides or kayaking at light, medium or hard levels. It is simple, sociable and inexpensive. Our Chi Phat guide covers it in detail.
Cardamom Tented Camp sits on a river inside Botum Sakor National Park. Guests meet at a departure point near Trapeang Rung on National Road 48 and continue by longtail boat. Packages start at US$393 for three days and two nights and include guided treks, kayaking and boat trips. It suits travelers who want the forest with a proper bed, meals sorted and a guide on hand.
The border question
The Cambodia-Thailand land border has been closed since the 2025 fighting, and the UK advises against all but essential travel within 20 km of it. Koh Kong province touches that border, which worries people. In practice, the places travelers go in the Cardamoms are well inland: by our approximate check against official boundary data, Chi Phat is about 75 km and the tented camp area about 46 km from the border. Koh Kong town, by contrast, is about 8 km from it, so we do not route trips through it. See safety and border advice.
Fitting the Cardamoms into a trip
From Phnom Penh, National Road 4 and then National Road 48 take you to Andoung Teuk (about 195 km) or Trapeang Rung (about 242 km). Two or three nights is the right length. Afterwards, Kampot is about 141 km from Andoung Teuk, which makes an easy pairing of forest and riverside town; see the four-day Cardamoms route.
If you are choosing between the Cardamoms and Mondulkiri for your one nature chapter, our comparison sets out the trade-offs.
Seasons at a glance
What the providers publish
These are the facts each provider states on its own website, with the date we read them. Naming a provider here describes it; it is not an endorsement or a partnership.
Questions travelers ask
Is it safe to visit the Cardamom Mountains with the Thai border advice?
The UK advises against all but essential travel within 20 km of the Cambodia-Thailand land border, and the Netherlands has a similar zone. By our approximate map check, Chi Phat is about 75 km and the Cardamom Tented Camp area about 46 km from the border, so they fall outside it. Koh Kong town and the Cham Yeam crossing are inside it, so routes should not pass through them. Check the latest advice before you travel.
Chi Phat or Cardamom Tented Camp?
Chi Phat is a village: homestays or guesthouses, local food, and treks and bike rides arranged through the community visitor centre. It costs little and suits flexible travelers. The tented camp is a comfortable lodge in Botum Sakor National Park with guided activities in a package price. Choose by comfort level and budget; both put you in the forest.
When is the best time to visit the Cardamoms?
November to April is the dry season and the easiest for trekking. The south-west coast gets heavy monsoon rain from about June to October, when trails are muddy and some activities change, although rivers are fuller for boat trips.
Sources and checks
Time-sensitive details on this page (prices, schedules, travel times, access) were last checked against the sources below on 11 October 2026. They change, so any proposal reconfirms them with the provider first.
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